Dr Johnny Drain answers the BRiMM Life Questionnaire

Becky Lucas
Dr Johnny Drain answers the BRiMM Life Questionnaire

The chef with a PhD who brought cocoa-free chocolate to market is on a quest: to spread the word about the secret science of ‘flavour and sustainability’. Here he shares his low-impact living tips plus an exclusive extract from his brand new book, Adventures in Fermentation, just for BRiMM readers 

Image created by Photography credit: Stephen Kei, @stephen.kei
Photography credit: Stephen Kei, @stephen.kei

What’s your latest low-impact life reset
“Batch cooking rice and legumes.”

… and the one that has brought you the most joy 
Aeropress + local beans = joy in a cup. Low waste, high reward.”

Favourite planet-positive products and why
“Massive containers of home staples like hand wash, washing up liquid, shampoo.”

Tell us your all-time top second-hand find
“I have always loved second-hand clothes… finding a great piece whose former life you can only speculate about. There are too many to mention, but stand outs are a big cream aran cardigan bought by the kilo in Santa Cruz and a pair of LL Bean loafers from Oxfam in Summertown in Oxford.” 

Favourite walking route
“The shingly coastline in Deal, Kent – my (not quite) daily dose of sea therapy.”

Most beautiful cycle journey
“Oxford on a bashed-up third-hand bike, golden hour across Port Meadow, then down to The Isis Farmhouse for a pint. Pure, unfiltered magic. Some of my happiest memories.”

Most joyful weekend moment
“Coffee, pastries, lie-in, pottering.

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Plant-based dish of dreams 
“Aubergine miso glaze, roasted till molten. Serve with rice, pickles, smugness.” [Here’s a more detailed recipe inspired by Angela Hartnett’s version, courtesy of The Balanced Kitchen blog.]

Song that lights you up and the story behind it
“Van Morrison's Astral Weeks is probably my favourite album of all time, and has been for 20 years. But I only listen to it once every year or two these days, lest it's magic wear thin. Last time was in February, from start to finish, as I lazed by and swam in a pool in a magical hacienda in Mexico. It was sublime.”

The independent coffee shop that makes you happy
The Roasting Shed in Hackney Wick or Popup Cafe in Deal.”

Indie record store tip
“I recently bought a job lot of northern soul 7 inches from an auction site. As a kid I used to go to Reddington's Rare Records in Birmingham.”

Fave book, TV show or film that inspired you to make a change
“I don't really watch much TV or films these days but going back, Stephen Poliakoff's Shooting the Past, which broaches the haunting question of what gets left behind when we choose change, left its mark on me.”

Image created by Silo
Silo

Podcasts that lift you up
“I essentially only listen to one podcast, In Our Time, which is one of my favourite things of all time. Also, I just launched Adventures in Fermentation, where I interview chefs, scientists, artists, oddballs about the magic of, well, fermenting.”

Who is your planet-positive hero
“Mother Earth.”

Quote to live by and who said it
“‘As simple as possible but not simpler.’ Albert Einstein.”

What gets you every time
“Jet lag.”

What is love
“Baby, don't hurt me.”

Which issue do you care most about changing?
“Remaking a food system that treats both its workers and the planet like they're disposable.”

Do you have a message you’d love to share with the collective?
“Ferment more. Waste less. Be kind. Especially to microbes.”

Fancy doing our BRiMM Life Questionnaire yourself? Get in touch

Exclusive book extract for BRiMM readers

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In a world in which we’re incredibly wasteful with the resources we have, fermentation can be a powerful tool in sustainability. Microbes are the 
great talent spotters of the world. Where humans see trash, they see treasure. They have an uncanny knack for unlocking the potential – whether that’s nutrition, flavour or some other useful feature – of unloved or waste materials, including food. A good friend of mine, chef Doug McMaster, runs Silo, the world’s first zero-waste restaurant and one ‘without a bin’.

Microbes, you see, are much less fussy than humans. They’ll often grow on things we might put in the bin or things that haven’t fully spoiled but have staled, or things just a little past their best. So with collaborators like Doug, I have pioneered ways to use fermentation to upcycle unloved ingredients or even off-cuts and food that might have been thrown away, an approach that was second nature to our ancestors, both distant and recent. If it’s good enough for the sauces, condiments and seasonings of award-winning chefs, as well as our foremothers, then what is to stop you trying it at home? If nothing else, it would be a boon to your bottom line, turning inexpensive or unwanted ingredients into store cupboard stalwarts with punchy flavours. Best of all, to take advantage of the various superpowers that fermented foods have, very little specialist knowledge or equipment is required.

Fermentation is like a culinary piñata. And a very generous one at that. A few gentle taps and the gifts will fall. My job is not to do the hitting. That’s for you. Rather, I am here to point you in the right direction and give you encouragement. With this book I hope I will have convinced you of three things: that we should all be eating more fermented foods; that everyone can ferment at home; and that fermentation can change your life.

Explore this invisible realm of microorganisms that shapes us more than we may ever understand and this ancient microbial school of cooking that has led to many of the world’s favourite foods and flavours. We will unpack the fascinating secret lives of microbes, what they are and the critical roles they play in our world, bodies and diets, as well as shining a spotlight on the particular types of bacteria, yeasts and moulds that humans most commonly use to make fermented foods.

Unsure of where to put your pickles or what to do with your kimchi? Don’t know the difference between a kvass and a kombucha, let alone a doenjang and cheonggukjang? Unsure if your kraut has sufficiently saured? Whilst many fermentation trends have shifted into public awareness in recent years, most home-cooks are still uncertain of how to make use of the ferments popping up in supermarkets or being crafted at home by enthusiastic friends and family.

By sharing my own journey – which has had its fair share of blunders and happy accidents, including making skin-dissolving butter on a boat – and the recipes I’ve gathered along the way, I hope to give you the confidence to explore, experiment and ferment for yourself, and unleash your creativity on some of the most popular ferments from around the world from garums, kimchis and cheongs to vinegars, misos and fruit wines. We will also look ahead to the immense possibilities of fermenting for the future, whether in nurturing our own microbiomes, reducing waste or leaning on the world of fungal foods to reduce our reliance on foods that are harmful to the planet and many of its people.

Fermentation connects eating deliciously, healthily and sustainably; it has shaped us, our palates and the planet; and it has the potential to do so much more. The future will be delicious. And fermented! 


Adventures in Fermentation, from £16, available now